Evenings in Phnom Penh the parks - more or less empty during the hot or rain-soaked days - throng with people. Food vendors and balloon hawkers line the edges, unmarried couples steal an hour, families take over the lanes with badminton wars and so on. It’s like any park in any city, writ late. Around 5, there’s the inevitable jazzercise class, around 6 kids start blasting music. And when the sun starts going down, if it’s a weekend night, the fountains get lit up and the real party starts. All the fountains get lit up, but the one in front of the Royal Palace splashes out a water show… to music. I felt like a loser squealing and pointing and filming this until my friend pointed out that everyone else standing rapt was Cambodian and half were snapping shots too. Trevi? Psha.